Monday, February 20, 2017

The absent-minded hike a.k.a. the absolutely amazing hike

The absent-minded hike a.k.a. the absolutely amazing hike

I often get quizzical and skeptical responses when I tell people I go backpacking solo. Going in the wilderness solo has become such a part of my life that is doesn't register as unusual or dangerous to me. Part of my confidence stems from experience and part from preparation. Which, I hope to convey, is not a sense of hubris, but just an innate knowledge of my own capabilities and boundaries in the wilderness. I strongly feel that being prepared is a huge part of staying safe in the backcountry.

So it was with a bit of trepidation at my own temerity that I set out on a three-day trip in the Superstition Mountains outside of Pheonix, AZ just after Thanksgiving because you see, I was not nearly prepared as I might have wished to be. A few weeks prior I did a tiny bit of research on possible hikes and then life got busy. The week before heading to AZ, I ran my first backpacking class, had an awesome trip with some fabulous ladies in Red River Gorge, then promptly got squashed in my car the next day on my way to work. Thankfully all the camping gear that was still in my trunk survived, though the car did not.

Suffice to say, the week leading up to my trip to AZ was a bit action packed and I didn't have time to focus on the preparations I normally would before a backpacking trip. As an added bonus, I was going out to AZ for a week and a half to celebrate Thanksgiving with my family and go on a backpacking trip, all while packing in a carry-on that would fit under the seat. Thankfully I knew my sister was fairly well equipped for a backpacking trip, so gear was limited to my clothes, Steripen, quilt, and a stove/pot set.

The point of all this nonsense is to say, that by the time I actually set out on the trip, I had maps and gear and not much of a plan and no real idea what the water sources were going to be like in the desert. And to top it all off, I managed to leave the Steripen charging at my sister's apartment - good thing boiling water is a backup method, as my usual backup method was in its customary pocket in my pack in Ohio and not the pack I was borrowing from my sister.

All in all, between my haphazard planning, last minute packing, later start in the day, and lower back injury from my car accident, I was a bit unsure as I set out whether it was a good idea or not. But, being of a gung-ho, the show must go on, work-with-what-you've-got type personality, I set out anyways. After all, I'm not one to turn down a chance to spend some quality time in the wilderness.

See here more examples of my forgetfulness on this trip:

So off I went into the desert. And what wonder it was. Being a midwestern gal, who has done most of her hiking in the lush, wet, eastern mountains, the arid landscape, the jagged, colored peaks, and spiky flora were a constant delight for the eyes. I think I spent three days enraptured with the vistas, tripping over my own feet as I took in the view. (Side note - hiking and sight-seeing generally don't mix! If you want to sightsee without falling over, stop walking!)

My concerns about finding a campsite rapidly evaporated as I passed spot after spot, each one with a stunning view to wake up to. My fears about lack of water continued as I followed the dry riverbed down the canyon. However, when I arrived at Second Spring, while the water level was low, there was water. Hallelujah, I wouldn't have to bail out and call my sister to come pick me up.

Water is life. Backpacking has made me so aware of how we as a modern society are so privileged to have easily accessible, clean drinking water. I thought a lot about the Water Protectors at the Dakota Access Pipeline demonstrations while hiking on this trip. Their call to protect is truly sacred.

If everyone had the chance to go backpacking in an area or time when water is scarce, I think we as a society would be more appreciative of the ease with which our basic needs are fulfilled. Backpacking trips all around! But in all seriousness, I do wish everyone could experience the simple joy that is getting drinking water from the earth herself and realize what a privilege it is to turn on a faucet and have liquid life gush out.

Any lingering fears I had about finding water began eroding at the gentle tip-tapping of rain on my tent. The tip-tapping became a rush when the wind and rain picked up and washed away my remaining anxiety about the availability of water.


I slept as snug as a bug with a back injury sleeping on a thin foam pad on a rocky desert floor can sleep. However, the key point that night was that the tent didn't leak. It was a dirt cheap score at a REI garage sale, presumably so cheap because of the truly horrendous seam-sealing job on the rainfly, which lent itself to questions about the tent's ability to keep the occupant dry. Such questions were unfounded, though, as I awoke to a rain-freshened morning outside and no rain inside.

It was at this point of the trip that my lack of planning ahead of time became the best part of the trip. Nothing can compare to the utter freedom of a vast stretch of wilderness with dozens of trails and absolutely nothing on your agenda but exploring wherever your fancy takes you. The only person I saw that day asked me where I was headed and I responded with glee and delight "Somewhere, anywhere!" (which resulted in a concerned, "Do you need a map?") There is such freedom in backpacking because everything you need to survive is on your back. No matter where I went, I would be home, because home was with me.




Camping in late November means long nights, so I was in bed asleep by 8 pm. The temperature was dropping, so a Nalgene full of hot water kept me snug and warm. That is until the cloud cover dispersed and the temperature plummeted even more. I awoke around 2 am, feeling rather chilly and looked out to see a blanket of stars across the sky. A few minutes with the stove and my water was boiling away again and I snuggled back down under my quilt. In this case, I really wasn't prepared for the temperature to dip down around freezing. The layers I brought were my usual summer go-tos (Arizona is supposed to be warmer than Ohio, right?!) and not nearly what I would have brought had I realized the temperatures were going down to the low 30's, instead of the mid 40's I was anticipating. I might have taken an actual sleeping bag rather than the top quilt for my hammock which covers, but just barely, down to the sleeping pad. But physical discomfort is sometimes a part of backpacking and oddly enough part of why I enjoy it.



The third day was filled with continuously changing terrain as I took a circuitous route back to the trailhead.




I watched the sun slip below the ridge from high on a hill before a quick scramble down to the parking lot (cold weather encourages quick hiking!).



As the stars winked in above me I layered up in everything I had, feeling like a typical hiker hobo as I boiled some hot water at the side of the parking lot while waiting for my sister to pick me up.



And to top off the forgetfulness of the trip, while stopping for some foods on the way back I discovered my lobster-red face. Yep, I forgot sunscreen too.

*I've always made these short videos for my family as I hike, this is the first time I've included them in a blogpost, hope you get a sense of what it's like being out there!

Monday, July 4, 2016

New Trails

Sorry AT, you need to move over and make room for new trails in my life. Next up: The New England Trail, the shortest national scenic trail in the the US, clocking in at a mere 215 miles. Though I think I'll end up doing the whole Metacomet-Monadnock Trail which goes another 20 miles or so into New Hampshire. Why choose this trail you ask? One very simple reason:  it goes over Julia's mountain. Visit my best friend, then hike back to her house? Yes, please. This blog was originally just about my AT hike, but I had so much fun this trip I just have to share.

Right off the bat I could tell the New England Trail, NET, was different from the AT. If I had to choose one word to describe the AT that word would be "contrary." The AT chooses to be a contrary trail and you just love her for it. On the opposite side of the spectrum, my first impression of the NET can be summed up as "polite." If ever there was a polite trail, it is the NET.

Flat! And though it's hard to tell, there are actually three white blazes visible from where I am.
There is pleasant loamy, leafy trail; there are wide gentle pine needle stretches cushioning your steps. Flat sections that are actually flat? No really, such a thing exists, and apparently exists in abundance on the NET. Just enough slightly difficult sections that you don't feel like it's too easy. Blazes so continuous you can actually count on them and double-blazes showing every single turn no matter how gentle the turn?? Clearly the NET has been to charm school, for I was smitten in the first mile.

 All right, so it's not a perfect trail. Yesterday there was a section that should have been labeled "Here be Squiggles" and a definite overuse of the double-blaze to go around a area of rock that could have been scrambled over (ie. the AT would have gone straight up and over). And a section that must have been newly re-routed through waist-high grass and open scrub The only reason I knew I was on the right path was because of the white blazes, clearly also a "Here be Squiggles" section. Of course, those sections are the ones that keep things interesting.

I will note also, unlike the AT for which I had a very detailed guidebook and maps , the only information I had for this hike was an older USGS map copied on a printer running low on ink (ie. blurry, not very detailed, and definitely not up-to-date with the current trail). But hey, all in good fun!

And so without further ado, the pictures!
So excited to see a white blaze I almost swooned!
Lots of red efts on the trail due to rain the day before.
Since I was not thru-hiking, I gleefully took all the side, blue-blazed trails. This one led to a pretty view of the reservoir.

Not surprisingly, this side trail led to a beaver dam.

Lunch on the reservoir dam.
So excited to be camping I had to make a funny face. Plus that's the face you make when you inadvertently hike three more miles than you planned to, up and over the one large mountain of the trip while carrying enough water for camp and the next day. Overdid it on the first day? Yep, now I've got my hiker hobble on. It's also the face you make when daring to camp without putting up your tarp. In seven and a half months on the AT, there was only one night I did not put my tarp up. This felt so daring.
No rain, but I did need to hide from the mosquitoes.
Strange standing stones in a "Here be Squiggles" section. Note the double-blaze and arrow pointing the way, so polite!
On Stratton Mt at the Richardson-Zlogar Cabin. It took me 45 min to get here from the road crossing. Julia took a different path from the same road and got here in 10 min. "Here be Squiggles"
Yay for a best friend who brings you water because all the water sources for the day were completely dry due to the drought. Plus best friends know the area and know where there is a pond for swimming!
Love my hammock!
Didn't set up the tarp again!
Goodnight world! (8:10PM)
Good morning sun! (5:20AM)
I'm going to pretend today is not a holiday. Why? Because this was the best Monday morning in the office ever. Working on my new backpacking business plans. Yes, from the comfort of my hammock :)
Why hello there Mt Greylock and the AT off on the horizon!
No rain, but Bumbershoot came in handy to save me from today's searing heat as I ate lunch on Crag Mt, high above Julia's house.
Goodbye white blazes, til next time!
As I walked back to Julia's via the road, a kindly cyclist inquired if I had lost my way and needed directions back to the trail. Love it when folks are helpful to hikers!

Tuesday, August 25, 2015

Open at the close

To those of us who grew up on Harry Potter (hmmm, it sounds like a drug when you phrase it that way), the quote "Open at the close" conjures up images of the golden snitch. To me, I have realized what I set out to do so many years ago. I have hiked the entirety of the Appalachian Trail. In this sense, I close. Yet at the same time, I am open. With this way-point reached, I look ahead to a road that is now open. Open with possibility, open to a new goal, open and unwritten. But before I charge ahead into the unknown, I'll share the final savory moments of the trail, the 100 Mile Wilderness and Katahdin.

I was carrying a mere 4 days of food and relying on a bucket left in the woods by a man with a beard for the remaining three days of food I needed.
One of the first things that comes to mind when I think back over the 100 Mile is Dry Shoes! This requires capitalization and exclamation points. If you have ever been out on a multiday trek and had wet feet you will understand my elation.

(Side note:  For the past two summers I have been developing a new scientific tool as I hiked. It is called the soggometer. It is a diagnostic tool that can be used to qualify the level of wetness your feet are experiencing and the sogginess of your shoes/socks and this level can then help extrapolate to other variables such as trail conditions, historical weather, or the state your feet will be in when you take off your shoes and can more loosely extrapolate to hiker mood. Soggometer readings range from "blissfully dry" through "squelching with every step.")

Prior to the 100 Mile my soggometer reading had been consistently between "soggy beyond belief" and "squelching with every step" due to wet trail conditions, river fordings (yes I removed my shoes, but the river was up to my hips and my shoes got wet anyways), and slippery wet rocks that led straight down to bog pits as deep as my calf. Therefore, you can understand my elation that throughout these seven days my soggometer readings ranged merely from "damp with sweat" to "transient wetness" but never reached "noticeably wet." This miraculous occurrence does not mean there was no rain, (in fact I was chased off the summit of Whitecap Mt and my first up-close view of Katahdin by a thunderstorm) but that through a combination of luck and skill I managed to maintain dry feet on the the trail; a feat which on a ordinary trek may have considerable influence on hiker morale, though in this particular situation was merely the cherry on being near the end of the trail.

Can you find the beaver at this river crossing?
The final days were punctuated with blissful sunsets,
Antler's Campsite on Mary-Jo lake
breakfast in bed with the sunrise,
Antler's Campsite
cool lakes for swimming,
View of Katahdin
and beautiful panoramas.
Tiny rowboat on lake. View from Nesuntabunt Mt.
I emerged from the 100 Mile Wilderness onto a bridge full of people taking in the view of Katahdin, whose first question to me was "Oh, are you out for a day hike?" and then "No, then just for an overnight?" I have come to realize, a dress signifies society. A person hiking in a dress must therefore not be long away from society. I must admit to secret glee at flouting cultural expectations when responding "No, I walked here from Georgia." And the inevitable second response "No, I'm alone."

View of Katahdin from Abol Bridge.
Yes, these feet brought me here from Georgia. Here being Big Niagara Falls in Baxter State Park.
At long last I packed up my gear that final morning and set off to climb. Up.
White Blazes, they end here.
 The climb, for it is a climb, not a hike, was sunny and gorgeous though the final climb after the tableland was socked in with clouds. Climbing Katahdin was a rather gymnastic feat and I'm glad that I am very flexible given how short I am. On multiple occasions I found myself putting my foot up near my shoulder because that was the only place for a foothold. On this note, I do not recommend climbing Katahdin in a dress if you are very short. No, there is not an amusing story lurking in this comment, just a lot of people on a mountain and a feeling of self consciousness usually absent in the woods.

And then finally the mist parted and there I was. At the top. At the last white blaze. At the sign telling me I was closed. And that I was open.


I followed blue blazes down off the mountain. I had a time of quiet and reflection, alone with a flock of my little birds at Chimney Pond. Then my mom and sister arrived.
Chimney Pond, view up to Knife's Edge.
The trek was over, the next adventure awaits...
Sunset over the lake while eating dinner with the family.
We had a lovely dinner, my mom, grandparents, sister and I with gorgeous view across the lake to Katahdin.
Slan abhaile Katahdin.
Success will come with patience, but the best times of your life have not yet been lived.
 Open at the close.

Wednesday, July 29, 2015

The wilderness begins...

that is the 100 Mile Wilderness. The final stretch before Baxter State Park and the climb up Katahdin. It's a bit hard to comprehend that I have finally reached this point on the trail. I'm looking forward to a gorgeous section of trail ahead. Stay tuned for pictures of the final trek.


In the meantime a short peak into what keeps my mind occupied during the hours of hiking:
Up on the Ridgetop
Up on the ridgetop hikers walk
Haul their packs and scale the rock.
Eating as much as they can bring;
feed a hiker to hear them sing:
Ooo who wouldn't go
ooo who wouldn't go? Up on the ridgetops and mountains high that make our spirits soar and fly.


There are more verses, but typing them out on my phone is a bit tedious, so tune in next for pictures and the other verses!

Saturday, July 25, 2015

The beginning of the end

Yesterday I crossed the Kennebec River. A very distinct point in the trail. I did not walk a single step, but rather paddled a few dozen strokes. It felt like the beginning of the end. It was also very wet. Umbrellas and canoes don't work well together.

A rainy river crossing of the Kennebec River.

I have been back on the trail for ten days and have fourteen more to go; less than 150 miles of trail.

The post I never wrote last year was titled "On Fallling..." At t-minus 250 miles from Katahdin I slipped on a wet rock and fell, breaking my left ring finger. In rural Maine, that meant hiking another four miles down and up over another mountain before reaching the road and having an hour and a half drive to a hospital. Of course, true to trail spirit, I met an ER doctor on the top of the next mountain, who taped my finger up properly before I continued on my way. The x-ray showed a complex fracture and the doctor's statement, "I think you need to see a specialist," in a drawn out manner said it wasn't a suggestion. So homeward I traveled with the help of my amazing friends and family to be patched back together with pins and a few months of healing.

So once more this summer I have set off, into the wilds of Maine, on a quest, being drawn onward by the loadstone, the mountain that draws all hikers, Katahdin. Having journeyed by ferry across the unpredictable Kennebec, it is as if I have crossed the threshold. The end is close. By setting foot on the north bank of the river I have entered the magnetic pull of Katahdin and every step northward I take is eminent with the knowledge that it puts me a fraction closer to the completion of my goal. 



Katahdin is calling; I will answer that call. 

~Little Bird

My feet have grown wings and onward to Katahdin I fly. 

Wednesday, August 13, 2014

17 miles to Maine

It's a cold rainy day today, and I am happily resting my weary self, warm and dry with a crowd of hikers in a hostel.  I have completed the White Mountains of New Hampshire. I had gorgeous views, rocky climbs, hail and thunderstorms, and one moose. As beautiful as they are, these mountains are rugged; most trails go straight up and then straight down! By the time I arrived yesterday I felt like I had been chewed up, swished around, gargled and then spit out. Pretty much every muscle was sore! But a relaxing bath and some good food has me feeling ready to go again, though not in this weather!

I was thankful to have wonderful weather when I climbed Mt Washington, a place reputed to have the worst weather on earth. It was a Saturday and many others were taking advantage of the good weather to hike, drive, and arrive by cog railway at the top. It was overwhelming to suddenly be among a crowd of hundreds of people thronging the top of the mountain. My inner peace was restored when the crowds thinned out as the trail went farther along the spine of the Presidentials.

I have 17 more miles to hike in NH before crossing my final state line into Maine! I will be hiking the infamous Mahoosuc Notch in a few days. It is a mile long stretch of the trail that is essentially a jungle gym of boulders and can take hours to cross. Katahdin is still 300 miles away, but each step is bringing me closer.

~Little Bird

Saturday, August 2, 2014

5 second update

I now have less than 400 miles to go! I have climbed my first mountain in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, Mt Moosilauke. Northward I go!